Sam Bowker: The Grand Tour Diary (2005 - 2006)

This is the archived journal of a 2005-2006 'Grand Tour' around the Eastern Mediterranean and along East Africa, written by Sam Bowker, whilst in search of his PhD topic.

Monday, January 30, 2006

Malawi - The Inland Sea

Dedicated to Foot Worms

They say that scratching at parasitic African foot worms is better than sex. Fortunately, I wouldn't know. I'm not one of the five people on the truck infested with the freakish moving vein-like buggers. Their curative regime of flash-freezing, soaking in petrol and popping various pills seems to be working now, luckily.

I'm writing this retrospectively from Zanzibar. You'll get another blog for that. There was no chance of accessing internet at all in Malawi. It's the third poorest nation in Africa, and by buying a handful of items I spent more than a typical year's income for the locals. One of the camping sites had just enough electricity to power a freezer, christmas lights, and an ipod-powered sound system. It was one of the best parties we've had so far!

Malawi is centered on the western shores of Lake Malawi, a vast and terribly beautiful expanse of clear flat water. It has tides and builds up into bg waves in the wake of storms. The water is bath warm, laden with colourful fish and populated with fishermem in dug-out canoes. We took the opportunity to ride horses bareback into the water, through villages and forests. On another day we walked 30km up to the Livingstonia mission at the top of a mountain overlooking the immense lake. It was the longest trek I've ever undertaken to reach a museum.

The emerging relationships on the truck are still very sweet. There have been engaging girls on other trucks we've encountered too.

Quickly now, I must tell you about Zanzibar!


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